Are you a fan of Viognier? If so, you can thank Georges Vernay, a humble farmer in the Condrieu appellation of the Northern Rhone Valley, who single-handedly saved the variety from extinction.
Georges Vernay (1926-2017) began working on his father’s 2.5 acre farm in 1944, four years after Condrieu was awarded appellation status. He took over the farm in 1953. Condrieu, like neighboring Côte–Rôtie, was in decline after World War II, with locals abandoning farms and vineyards in favor of more lucrative work. By 1960, only 17 acres of Viognier remained in the region. It is believed that there was no other commercially grown Viognier in the world at that time.
Vernay passionately believed in the commercial viability of the grape. Throughout his 64 years as a vigneron, he championed the variety and represented the Condrieu appellation, serving as its president for 30 years. By 1986 Condrieu had 50 acres under vine, and 148 acres by 1990. Today Viognier is the only grape allowed in the tiny Condrieu AOC, with over 420 acres under vine.
Thanks to Vernay’s efforts to supply cuttings to other wine making regions, Viognier has risen from virtual extinction and is widely grown and loved throughout the world. So, the next time you enjoy a Viognier, raise your glass to the man who made it possible.
Photo Credit: Doris Schneider, Ursula Brühl, Julius Kühn-Institut (JKI)