During a recent road trip from California to Texas, my wife and I had the chance to explore several wine regions across the Southwestern US. The wine industries in Arizona and New Mexico share many similarities with Texas but they also differ in notable ways. Like Texas, the modern wine industry in each state is relatively young despite a long tradition of viticulture. As one visits wineries across the region, a pioneering spirit of experimentation and discovery is evident as producers explore new growing areas and grape varieties.
Arizona
Arizona’s diverse terrain and rugged beauty hide one of the state’s best kept secrets – a burgeoning wine industry.
Viticulture in Arizona has a long history dating as early as 1703. Throughout the eighteenth and nineteenth century, the number of vineyards across the state grew dramatically as early settlers recognized the region’s potential. That momentum was halted, however, in 1914, five years before prohibition, when the state legislature passed a law banning the sale, manufacture, and consumption of alcohol. The state remained “dry” until the legislature repealed the law in 1932 and ratified the federal repeal of prohibition in 1933. The industry didn’t fully recover until the late 1970s.
Arizona currently has three American Viticulture Areas (AVAs), with the majority of production coming from two in the Southeast corner of the state. The Sonoita AVA, established in 1984, is located just north of the Mexico border and is known for Old-World inspired wines. To its east, the Willcox AVA, known for bold reds and Rhone-style blends, was established in 2016 and now produces 80% of the state’s fruit. The Verde Valley AVA was established in 2021 and stretches along the Verde River and Oak Creek in Central AZ southwest of Sedona. The towns of Jerome, Clarkdale, and Cottonwood are a popular tourist destination near the northern boundary of the AVA.
All three regions benefit from high elevations and wide diurnal swings of intense sun during the day and cool desert nights. Soils vary from sandy loam to clay and limestone. Humidity is relatively low and rainfall infrequent with the majority of yearly precipitation occurring during the monsoon season in July and August. This makes proper irrigation one of Arizona growers’ primary challenges.
Both Yavapai College in the Verde Valley and Cochise College in Willcox now offer degrees in viticulture and enology, a good indicator of the industry’s momentum and trajectory.
We had an opportunity to taste a number of varietals and blends from each of the three regions. I found reds from the Willcox area to be the earthiest with good weight and tension. A favorite from Verde Valley was a crisp Chardonnay with bright acidity and nice minerality. As expected from a warm climate region, most of the wines were more fruit-forward and rounder in acidity than their cool climate counterparts but very enjoyable.
A quick summary of Arizona AVAs:
- Sonoita – Southeastern AZ near the Mexico border, established 1984, elevations 4500-5200′, Mediterranean climate, 229 acres planted, 18 vineyards, high-pH soils mostly composed of limestone and gravely loam, 15-20″ rain/year. Varieties include Aglianico, Albariño, Counoise, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Grenache, Malvasia, Marsanne, Merlot, Mission, Montepulciano, Mourvèdre, Petite Sirah, Petit Manseng, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Sagrantino, Sangiovese, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Tannat, Tempranillo, Vermentino, Viognier, and Zinfandel.
- Willcox – Southeastern AZ, established 2016, elevation 4000′, arid desert climate, 454 acres planted, 21 vineyards, soils are mostly loam composed of sand, silt, and clay, 13-18″ rain/year. Varieties include Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Malbec, Malvasia Bianca, Marsanne, Merlot, Mourvèdre, Muscat, Nebbiolo, Norton, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Petite Sirah, Riesling, Sangiovese, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Syrah, Tempranillo, Trebbiano, Viognier and Zinfandel.
- Verde Valley – Central AZ, established 2021, elevation 3000-5500′, high desert transition climate, 125 acres planted, 24 vineyards, alluvial soils including sandstone, basalt, and gravelly loam with silt and limestone, 16-18″ rain/year. Varieties include Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malvasia Bianca, Picpoul Blanc, Petite Sirah, Sangiovese, Seyval Blanc, Syrah, Tannat, Vermentino and Viognier.
- “Mavericks” – The name given to growers in other non-AVA areas such as Chino Valley, Young, Kingman, Williams, and Portal.
New Mexico
When I think of New Mexico, I picture a landscape of vast plains, towering mesas, cactus, and rattlesnakes. But vineyards? You betcha, partner! That is one of New Mexico’s hidden treasures.
New Mexico boasts the oldest wine industry in the US. The earliest planting of Spanish varieties in the New Mexico territory date to 1629 when Spanish friars planted grapes for sacramental wine. Viticulture expanded during the late 1800’s as Jesuit priests introduced Italian winemaking techniques to the region. During the Prohibition era, vineyard acreage actually doubled across the state. But despite its early boom, the New Mexico wine industry effectively collapsed in 1943 due to extensive flooding of the Rio Grande River and remained virtually dormant for decades until its revival in the late 1970s.
Today there are three AVAs in New Mexico with approximately 1,400 acres under vine and more than 60 wineries operating across the state. The bulk of the state’s production occurs in the Middle Rio Grande Valley and Mimbres Valley AVAs. A portion of the smaller Mesilla Valley AVA is shared with Texas. Soils across the state range from sandy loam to volcanic gravel. All AVAs benefit from high elevations (3,700′ to 5,200′) and wide diurnal shifts but are often subject to low soil nutrients and high salinity leading to reduced sugar accumulation and delayed phenolic maturity. Careful soil management is a crucial factor in the region’s viticulture.
Our visit to New Mexico was briefer than Arizona but we had an opportunity to taste a number of wines from several producers. My personal favorites were a very nice Cab Franc and Pinot Noir from D. H. Lescombes, sourced from Mimbres Valley. I was surprised to learn that New Mexico is developing a reputation for outstanding sparkling wines. Something to take note of for future exploration.
A quick summary of New Mexico AVAs:
- Middle Rio Grande Valley – Central NM, established 1988, elevation 4,000-6,500′, arid continental climate, 458 acres planted, 20 vineyards, soils of fine sand to clay. Varieties include Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Riesling.
- Mesilla Valley AVA – Eastern NM, established 1985, elevation 3,700-4,200′, arid continental climate, 40 acres planted, 21 vineyards. Varieties include Albariño, Barbera, Black Muscat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Dolcetto, Gewurztraminer, Malvasia, Merlot, Montepulciano, Tempranillo, Moscato, Mourvedre, Muscat of Alexandria, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Noir, Primitivo, Riesling, Sangiovese, Shiraz, Syrah, Tempranillo, Viognier, Zinfandel.
- Mimbres Valley AVA – Southwestern NM, established 1985, elevation 4,000-6,000′, arid continental climate, 400 acres planted, 12 vineyards. Varieties include Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Dolcetto, French Colombard, Malvasia Bianca, Merlot, Muscat Canelli, Nebbiolo, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir, Ruby Cabernet, Syrah, Ugni Blanc and Zinfandel.
The Southwestern US is quickly earning recognition as a world-class wine region and I feel sure it will draw even greater attention in the years to come. Wine lovers exploring these regions will find themselves well rewarded.